Thank god for the so-called “liberal news media” who in addition to the truth, also bring us articles by folks who obsessively test recipes, seek the help of the experts, and create dozens of versions in their own kitchens, all to bring us the fruits of their hard-hitting research: the perfect recipe. They did it for pie crust and it was awesome. Then, last summer, David Leite ran a story about his exhaustive quest for the perfect chocolate chip cookie – complete with easy recipe for at home use. It is nothing short of orgasmic and has replaced my old standby CCC recipe forever. ORGASMIC, I say. There are too few things out there that can be described this way.
This post is dedicated to Laura C, my friend and former roommate during our first years as Teach For America teachers. Laura is a true cookie connoisseur, and my toughest critic. When the NYT article hit last July, I immediately thought of Laura and how I had to make her this cookie. That’s why she will soon receive a fresh baked batch from this blog post in the mail as an early holiday present.
I cut no corners when using Leite’s recipe this time. Fancy French Butter. Free range green market eggs. And the crowning achievement – actual fèves from Jacques Torres store in Brooklyn, which I was delighted to discover is so close to my new job.
I did go a little overboard with a 4 pound bag, but hey, it’s the holiday season, I’m sure there will be other uses, like my chocolate salted caramels, for instance.
The cookie recipe works like most others I have seen, just try to follow the directions as closely as possible.
The recipe calls for cake and bread flours. If you don’t have both, I read on the internet that all-purpose worked for those who tried it. Do be careful with the measurements as you pour the flour.
Do not let the flour mingle with the dry ingredients in the mixer for more than 10 seconds. Quickly integrate the chocolate.
Gratuitous sexy chocolate shot. By the way, if you don’t have a Jacques Torres store next to your awesome new job, no worries. Just get a block of the best quality that you can and chop it into slim, irregular pieces (as I usually do when I make these). Just remember – nothing over 60% cacao.
Once the chocolate is dispersed evenly, get out the cling wrap and get ready to put up the biggest willpowered fight of your life.
Because you will not be tasting one of these babies for at least 24 hours. If you can hold out for 48, this is recommended. I know, I know. What a killjoy I am. But it’s so so worth it. Leite wrote about how time in the fridge makes these get better and better, and I’ve tried it myself and I agree. 24 hours of chilling is essential. 48 hours, if you can make it, will yield a truly better cookie with the very same dough.
It will be worth the wait two days later when you take the dough from the fridge. Preheat your oven and make sure that it reaches 350 degrees before you put the cookies in. Form the dough it into hockey puck sized lumps and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment or a silicone baking mat (I prefer parchment when baking a large batch so I can prep on new parchment and move whole trays to the cooling rack on the old sheets).
Be sure not to forget the sprinkle of sea salt on the top – it is what takes this perfect cookie over the top. Also be sure to leave ample space between cookies. The expand several inches. Start watching them at 12 minutes in the oven. You want the tops to be golden brown.
Make them quick, before they are made illegal in your state! Always serve warm with a pile of napkins.

Chocolate Chip Cookies
Adapted from Jacques Torres
New York Times, July 9, 2008
Time: 45 minutes (for 1 6-cookie batch), plus at least 24 hours’ chilling
2 cups minus 2 tablespoons
(8 1/2 ounces) cake flour
1 2/3 cups (8 1/2 ounces) bread flour
1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt
2 1/2 sticks (1 1/4 cups) unsalted butter
1 1/4 cups (10 ounces) light brown sugar
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (8 ounces) granulated sugar
2 large eggs
2 teaspoons natural vanilla extract
1 1/4 pounds bittersweet chocolate disks or fèves, at least 60 percent cacao content (see note)
Sea salt.
1. Sift flours, baking soda, baking powder and salt into a bowl. Set aside.
2. Using a mixer fitted with paddle attachment, cream butter and sugars together until very light, about 5 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Stir in the vanilla. Reduce speed to low, add dry ingredients and mix until just combined, 5 to 10 seconds. Drop chocolate pieces in and incorporate them without breaking them. Press plastic wrap against dough and refrigerate for 24 to 36 hours. Dough may be used in batches, and can be refrigerated for up to 72 hours.
3. When ready to bake, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a nonstick baking mat. Set aside.
4. Scoop 6 3 1/2-ounce mounds of dough (the size of generous golf balls) onto baking sheet, making sure to turn horizontally any chocolate pieces that are poking up; it will make for a more attractive cookie. Sprinkle lightly with sea salt and bake until golden brown but still soft, 18 to 20 minutes. Transfer sheet to a wire rack for 10 minutes, then slip cookies onto another rack to cool a bit more. Repeat with remaining dough, or reserve dough, refrigerated, for baking remaining batches the next day. Eat warm, with a big napkin.
Yield: 1 1/2 dozen 5-inch cookies.
Note: Disks are sold at Jacques Torres Chocolate; Valrhona fèves, oval-shaped chocolate pieces, are at Whole Foods.















6 Comments
i am devotee of your blog, ms. soutiere. at first, i saw your facebook posts and thought you were dining at a new restaurant–the east village kitchen–and loving your meals so much that you were breathing second life into them by posting what you had just eaten for dinner.
alas.
one day i clicked on the link.
my exam grades might not be this quarter, but i am definitely ready to make about 95% of the recipes you’ve posted. and your pictures are fantastic! (last 5% involve equipment i do not currently own:)
hope all is well. and please don’t stop posting!
shelby
Ms. Berchelmann – Thank you so much for your kind words! The Blog has become a bit of an obsession, but it takes my mind off work, politics, and the state of the world, so I think it’s been therapeutic for me. I’m glad that you enjoy it too and hopefully you will enjoy the recipes as much as I have.
On a more personal note, I hope that things are going well for you. I had the opportunity to attend the TFA summit last month – it was great to recharge that battery. Hope our paths cross again soon! Happy holidays!
Lauren
laur–
these look amazing, i hope they are on the menu this christmas…
Tor – You ain’t seen nothing yet – and don’t forget – I’m making Grammy’s ravioli this year…
Lauren-these are hands down the best chocolate chip cookies I’ve ever had. So picture perfect, great size, texture, and the chocolate was phenomenonal. Unfortunately I don’t have a Jacques Torres store near my “really cool new job” unlike someone I know, but I really think that makes all the difference. I want to get your opinion on freezing dough. Do you have any recommendations? Thanks again for the delicious cookies-you made my Christmas.
Laura – Anything for my favorite cookie connaisseur! You can totally freeze dough. Just make sure that you wrap tightly with saran wrap first, and then again with a freezer bag with all of the air sucked out. The dough should keep for a month that way.
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