Crusty Cornstalk Rolls Recipe

 

I no longer make official resolutions at new years, because I’ve found that no sooner than I’ve proclaimed loudly to the world that I resolve to be more virtuous or less gluttonous, I’m right back at the vice within the week. However, I did make one quiet, non-resolution resolution to just myself this year. I (un)resolved to make more (and buy less) bread.

 

I really believe that this is a (non-) resolution that even I can keep. And I’m getting my motivation on thanks to the February 2009 Gourmet that arrived a few weeks ago, full of pretty pictures of roll varieties. I (non-) resolve to make them all.

 

 

The thing is, bread is not hard, although many people think it’s just impossible. After all, someone invented a large, appliance/consumer of precious counter space that everyone was told in the late 80s was completely essential for making bread. Thus, I blame bread makers (and the rediculous infomercials ) for the popular notion that bread making is difficult.

 

 

I also think it has something to do with the fact that there are lulls in the action as you wait for the dough to rise – it gives folks the perception that bread takes too much time, which is simply not true. It is perfectly sensible for one to come home from work, throw the ingredients together, knead for a little bit (that takes about a total of 10 minutes work), then let the thing rise and go to the gym. Or clean the house. Or have a glass or two of wine while listening to Bloc Party in your pajamas. Presto – before you know it, it’s ready to go in the oven (OK, another 30 seconds worth of work).

 

 

This bread may look complicated, but it’s dead simple, I promise.

 

 

And I added another use to the growing list of uses for the kitchen shears, which have become an East Village Kitchen essential. If you are in NYC, you can get a nice, heavy duty pair that can cut through pretty much anything, for cheap in the restaurant district.

 

 

It’s pretty fun to mess around with the dough. The idea here is to end up with rolls on a “stalk” that can be placed at the center of the table for guests to tear off. I wasn’t having a party  (just killing time while my onions were caramelizing), but rolls are great if you’re like me and don’t eat a whole lot of bread, as they can be stored in the freezer and thawed out in the oven as needed.

 

 

Spritzing the rolls with water several times within the first five minutes of baking was a very effective method for developing a thick crust. I also recommend placing a pan of water on the lowest rack of the oven to keep things nice and humid in there. Humid ovens make the best crusty bread.

 

 

Using this technique, you will end up with perfectly crusted outsides and warm chewy insides with a great flavor and texture from the cornmeal. There is simply nothing better than eating bread that you have made yourself, making it an easy new habit to form.

 

 

Crusty Cornstalk Rolls
Adapted from Gourmet, February 2009 

1 1/2 teaspoon active dry yeast (from a 1/4-ounce package)

1 1/4 cups warm water (105–115°F), divided

1 teaspoon mild honey or sugar

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour plus more for kneading and dusting

1 1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoon stone-ground yellow cornmeal, divided

Equipment: a spray bottle filled with water

 

Stir together yeast, 1/4 cup warm water, and honey in a large bowl and let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. (If mixture doesn’t foam, start over with new yeast.)

Mix flour, salt, 1/2 cup cornmeal, and remaining cup warm water into yeast mixture with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula until a soft dough forms.

Turn out dough onto a well-floured surface and knead, dusting surface and your hands with just enough flour to keep dough from sticking, until dough is elastic and smooth, 6 to 8 minutes. Form dough into a ball.

Put dough in an oiled large bowl and turn to coat. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and a kitchen towel and let dough rise in a draft-free place at warm room temperature until doubled, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Punch down dough (do not knead) and fold into thirds like a letter (dough will be soft), then gently roll into a 12-inch-long log with lightly floured hands.

Sprinkle a large baking sheet evenly with remaining 2 tablespoon cornmeal and put dough diagonally in center. Alternating sides, make 3-inch-long diagonal cuts, about 1 1/2 inches apart, into sides of log using kitchen shears (ends of cuts should not touch; maintain a center “stalk”). Gently pull apart cuts to stretch dough, forming rolls that are separate (about 1 1/2 inches apart) but connected to center stalk. Cover with a kitchen towel (not terry cloth) and let rise in a draft-free place at warm room temperature until doubled, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

Preheat oven to 425°F with rack in middle. Set a pan of water on the bottom rung.

Spray rolls with water, then bake, spraying into oven 3 times in first 5 minutes of baking (to help form a crust), until golden, about 20 minutes. Transfer rolls to a rack and cool at least 20 minutes.

Cooks’ note:Rolls are best the day they’re made, but whole baked stalk can be frozen (cool completely, then wrap well) 1 month. Thaw, then reheat on a baking sheet in a 350°F oven until warmed through, 5 to 10 minutes.


3 Comments

  1. Posted January 29, 2009 at 1:55 pm | Permalink

    The stalk is a beauteous creation. And a great idea for an imaginary dinner party! :) It’s funny. As we get closer to whipping up our first homemade bread, there seem to be more and more lovely bloggers doing the same. It must be a sign…

  2. danie
    Posted January 29, 2009 at 9:37 pm | Permalink

    I started making my own bread in Dec and it’s a habit now- after my favorite bread jumped up $2 (making it a $5.99 baguette!) I called it quits.
    Delicious, easy, and rewarding- everyone’s always wowed by homemade bread! :)
    The cornstalk looks amazing! the recipe title worried me :)

  3. Lauren
    Posted January 29, 2009 at 10:25 pm | Permalink

    Duo – Don’t be afraid to get your hands dirty! You guys will have a blast.

    Danie – I know – it’s simply outrageous what really good bread costs (although I will happy shell out for good sourdough because I will not subject myself to feeding a starter for a week) If you make it a part of your routine, it seems as sensible as doing laundry, and I find it to be calming and meditative.

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