Viennoiserie: Croissant and Pan au Chocolat




Viennoiserie played a major roll in my decision to go to culinary school. If you’ve ever had a really good croissant, and if you love baking as much as I do, you’ve probably spent a few sleepless nights wondering how that baker who made that perfect croissant achieves such gorgeous, buttery, flaky perfection.






Questions like this led me to research online, where I discovered that the secret to great viennoiserie (the blanket term for pastry that originated in Vienna and was perfected in France, including croissant, pain au chocolat, and danish of all ilk) lies in the ability to create many uniform, alternating layers of dough and butter by rolling out the dough, folding the butter inside it like an envelope, and then rolling it flat and folding it over itself a couple of different times (rinse, wash, repeat).




There are two ways to roll out the dough between each folding of the dough when making viennoiserie. You can do it the old fashioned (read: time consuming way) by hand, or you can do it using a machine called a sheeter. A sheeter is a must have if you are planning to make croissants on a daily basis. It also is a near-necessity for truly perfect croissants because it gives you perfectly even rolled out dough (and butter), and it works fast, keeping things cold, which is important. I first discovered the sheeter in this video from The City Bakery, which shows you the whole process in mass production, if you are interested.





Using a sheeter makes a potentially hard part (rolling the dough, focusing on the temperatures) easy, and frees you up for concentrating on the really hard part: shaping. I’ve made croissants at least five times now in class, two big sheet pans at a time. I’ve also made raisin danish spirals with pastry cream and apricot cream cheese pinwheels, both, unfortunately, not pictured. All of these items are really hard to shape perfectly, although the chefs make it seem effortless.





Learning to make croissants became a fixation of mine, and I started using it as the opening argument in the ongoing internal debate: Halt Career to Go to Cooking School? Yes? No? It was one of those things that I would never be able to learn how to do well without the proper equipment. A very small bullet point in the “pros” column that was a catalyst for getting more serious about considering school a viable possibility.





And lo, I am not an expert, but these are pictures of croissants that I made, and I’m getting more happy with my technique each time I make them. It’s a skill I’ll take with me when I go looking for baking work after graduation from bread class next week. Exciting times!


4 Comments

  1. Posted August 30, 2009 at 4:11 pm | Permalink

    yes yes yes, I could not agree with you more. croissants, french cuisine all played a huge role in my passion for fine cooking.
    wonderful read, I really enjoyed this.

  2. Posted August 30, 2009 at 4:12 pm | Permalink

    and yes, your croissants are exceptional, mine, eh, not so much.

  3. Shannon
    Posted September 28, 2009 at 10:14 am | Permalink

    Bless people like you for making croissants: something I have a passion for eating, but making them has always seemed much too intensive a process. And hundreds of croissants left over? Not a bad problem to have. Is this where the bread pudding came out of?

  4. Posted December 24, 2009 at 11:31 am | Permalink

    This is a lovely and eloquent blog. I wish I enjoyed cooking. I am usually 1 ingredient short of a 4 ingredient recipe. I’ll add your blog to mine so I can at least keep up with the latest and greatest recipe you’ve posted. Who knows Maybe I’ll be able to pull it together.

One Trackback

  1. By East Village Kitchen » Croissant Bread Pudding on September 3, 2009 at 8:03 am

    [...] without flinching. Then I started bread school, where we spent day after day of laminating dough as we learned Viennoiserie. At the end of those lessons we were left with hundreds, literally hundreds of fresh croissants [...]

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