I’d heard that once you start cooking as a career, you completely lose any desire you once had to cook meals at home. I was hopeful that I might avoid this fate since I work in pastry, but so far, it has been a struggle. I’ve discovered that the reluctance has nothing to do with what you are cooking, and much more to do with the act itself, particularly the part about having to stand up while doing it.

One rainy afternoon this week, however, I found my muse. Having faced day after day of gloomy,wet commutes on steamy subway trains reeking of wet dog, I decided that, tired feet be damned, I needed something braised. I wouldn’t rest until I had a pot filled with rich, savory goodness, slow cooking in my oven and filling the apartment with warm, drool-inducing smells.

Once I set to the task, I rediscovered how easy braising is. There’s not a lot of technical work involved or difficult judgment calls to make. You just chop vegetables, sear ribs, get the braising liquid going, add everything in, and then pop the entire pot into the oven, where the magic happens.

My favorite thing about braising is the waiting.

The longer you are willing to wait in suspense (i.e., the longer and lower the braise is in the oven) the better the end result will be. I struggle with this, wanting to eat what’s there because it smells so incredible, but also knowing that the longer that pot stays in the oven, the better the final results will be. It’s a beautiful form of torture.

I had five hours between the time that the braise went in and dinner, so I made the most of them. I even went out and did some errands while the short ribs were braising, just so I could come home and open the door to the warm and inviting embrace of tomatoes, garlic, thyme, and sage.

And when the moment finally came to sit down to dinner, when I felt as if I could barely endure waiting another second, the payoff came in spades. It was everything I had hoped it would be, comforting, delicious, luxurious, and the slow cooking had coaxed the meat right off the bones (making for uglier photos, but more delicious ribs). As the rain continued to pound the windows, I remembered why I love cooking at home, tired feet be damned.

Braised Beef Short Ribs with Sun Dried Tomato Gravy and Swiss Chard
Adapted from a recipe by Nancy Brunner of the Swiss Hotel in Sonoma, California, featured in Bon Appetit, October 2009

The most important element of this recipe is the meat, and you will be much happier with the results if you start with high quality raw ingredients. My friends at Dickson’s Farmstand Meats, who just celebrated their one month anniversary at their new home in Chelsea Market, have the best short ribs in the whole city. Always worth the trip across town.

One other important consideration with the recipe is that it involves a food mill, which is one item that I do not own. I had no problem finishing the gravy in my blender, at the expense of changing the texture of my gravy. The recipe intended for it to be less homogenous, with small, but distinct pieces of the turnips, carrots, and celery. I was ok with blending it more to create a sauce, but please consider this outcome before you decide to use a blender in lieu of a food mill.

Braising is best done “low and slow”. The original recipe (the one I’ve provided below, with some of my own changes) was designed to be quicker, and thus has the pot in a 350 degree Fahrenheit oven for 2 hours. For much more tender meat, I recommend that you try to do this for at least 4 hours at 250 degrees instead, or longer and lower if you have time on your side. This can be prepared a day in advance and reheated – and I’ve done many low and slow braises over night with tremendous results (8-12 hours, 200 degrees, for example). Slow cookers are made for these recipes, if you have the luxury of using one.

Serves 4

For short ribs:

6 pounds 3-inch-long meaty beef short ribs
Coarse kosher salt
1/4 cup all purpose flour
1/2 cup olive oil, divided
3 cups chopped onions
3 cups 3/4-inch cubes peeled turnips (about 1 pound)
2 cups chopped peeled carrots (about 8 ounces)
2 cups chopped celery
8 garlic cloves, peeled
1/4 pound sun-dried tomatoes (not packed in oil)
1/4 cup (lightly packed) fresh thyme sprigs
1/4 cup concentrated tomato paste
5 large fresh sage sprigs
5 bay leaves
2 cups dry red wine
4 cups low-salt chicken broth
Balsamic vinegar

For swiss chard:

1/4 cup olive oil
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 pounds Swiss chard, center ribs removed, leaves cut crosswise into 1-inch-thick ribbons (about 28 cups)

Special equipment (recommended):

Food mill

Prepare short ribs:

Preheat oven to 350°F. Place ribs on rimmed baking sheet; sprinkle with coarse salt and pepper. Sprinkle flour over; toss to coat. Heat 1/4 cup oil in heavy large wide pot over medium-high heat. Working in batches, cook ribs until browned all over, about 10 minutes per batch. Return to sheet. Wipe out pot. Add remaining 1/4 cup oil to pot. Add onions and next 4 ingredients; cook until tender and slightly browned, stirring often, about 12 minutes. Add sun-dried tomatoes and next 4 ingredients; stir to coat. Return ribs to pot, placing on sides to fit in single layer. Add wine. Simmer until slightly reduced, about 5 minutes. Add broth; cover and bring to simmer.

Transfer pot to oven and braise until ribs are tender, about 2 hours. Let stand, covered, at room temperature 15 minutes. Carefully transfer ribs to large bowl, keeping meat attached to bones if possible (some bones may separate from meat). Remove herb sprigs. Pass all braising liquid and vegetables through food mill into large bowl; return to pot. Spoon fat from surface. Season gravy to taste with salt and pepper and a few drops of balsamic vinegar. Rewarm gravy. Return ribs to gravy; cover and simmer to rewarm, about 5 minutes. DO AHEAD Can be made 1 day ahead. Refrigerate uncovered, until cool, then cover and keep chilled. Rewarm over medium heat until heated through, stirring gently, about 15 minutes.

Prepare swiss chard:

Heat oil in large pot over medium-high heat. Add garlic; stir 30 seconds. Add half of chard; toss to wilt, adding water by tablespoonfuls if dry, about 1 minute. Add remaining chard. Toss until wilted but bright green, about 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Divide ribs among plates. Divide chard among plates. Spoon gravy over ribs and serve, passing remaining gravy alongside.