Before I get down to business about this truly dreamy fall salad, I just have to ask – what do you think of the new look on the site? Is it not awesome? Major props and heaps of gratitude are in order for Paul, the gifted designer who was able to take the pages of meandering babble I wrote for him about my vision for the East Village Kitchen and translate them into the clean, beautiful design that you see here. I can’t wait to cook a giant thank you meal for he and his wife. Also, while I’m rolling the credits, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention that Brian spent the better part of a weekend wrangling the HTML to make the design play nice with WordPress, a daunting task that elicited cursing from the computer desk all weekend and proved, as if I didn’t know already, just how much he loves me.

Also, while I’m handing out thank yous, I also owe a big one to the EVK readers who reached out to me, either by commenting on the site or via email, to express disgust about what happened at that interview earlier this week and to offer words of encouragement. I was pretty ashamed, in hind site, that I allowed it to even happen rather than telling him that it was inappropriate and storming out, and I feel better now that I’ve taken action. That’s the last I’ll say on the matter, onward and upward! I’ll be doing a trial run at a wonderful bakery on Monday.

Ok, so, this salad. I’ve got my sweater on and I’m changing culinary gears – it’s time to embrace fall, hateful socks and all. I read an article about how amazing sugar pumpkins are for all kinds of sweet and savory recipes and decided that I wanted to try my hand with them this week. I have to say, I’m in love.

I missed out on the farmers market, so I was really happy to find the perfect NY state sugar pumpkin, just shy of 2 pounds, at Whole Foods. They were not marked with price per-pound, which usually ends with me going into mild shock at the checkout when the price is finally revealed, but not this time. I guess I never noticed before, but it turns out that pumpkin, even local, organic pumpkin, is cheap.

This is happy news for me, because I plan on making this salad at least once a week as long as sugar pumpkins are in season.

This is the kind of recipe that is super easy to pull together, but does require you to wait half an hour for the pumpkin to roast and the lentils to soak and cook. Be sure to get the lentils and the boiling water going while you are prepping the pumpkin, to save time. The biggest pain is cutting up and peeling the pumpkin, but I found that the chore became easier with the help of a sharp Swiss peeler. Also, if you quarter the pumpkin and scoop out all the seeds and pulp before you peel, the job goes much quicker. Be sure to use a sharp knife – raw pumpkin flesh is tough!

Once your pumpkin has cooled a bit (I thought this was stellar when the pumpkin was still warm) the only thing left to do is toss everything together and – voila! You’ve got yourself a bowl of spiced, creamy, crunchy deliciousness. The flavors and textures meld so perfectly; the subtle whiff of cumin and smoky flavor from the paprika, the goat cheese, melting into the pumpkin, making them both creamy and just a bit sweet, the slight bite of the lentil skins and the crunch of the rocket. Sigh. Drool. I’m so happy I have leftovers in the fridge!

Spiced Pumpkin, Lentil, and Goat Cheese Salad
Borrowed from Bon Appetit, November 2009

The subtle spices that are roasted with the pumpkin make a big difference and it is important to used a smoked paprika if at all possible. The website tienda.com is an excellent source for Spanish specialty spices and other traditional Spanish staples – Brian even ordered cheese from it! If you can’t find French lentils, just substitute other ones, just be sure to follow the directions for soaking and cooking that are provided with them, as they may be different.

Serves 4 as a meal, more as a pre-meal salad or side

3/4 cup French green lentils*
6 cups 1-inch pieces peeled seeded sugar pumpkin or butternut squash(from about one 2-pound whole pumpkin)
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon hot smoked Spanish paprika**
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
4 cups baby arugula
1 cup soft goat cheese, crumbled
1/4 cup thinly sliced mint leaves
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

PreparationPlace lentils in small bowl. Cover with cold water and soak 10 minutes; drain.

Cook lentils in boiling salted water until tender but firm, about 30 minutes. Drain lentils. Rinse under cold water, then drain.

Preheat oven to 375°F. Place pumpkin in large bowl; toss with 2 tablespoons oil, cumin, paprika, and sea salt. Arrange pumpkin in single layer on baking sheet; roast 20 minutes. Turn pumpkin over. Roast until tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Cool.

Combine lentils, pumpkin, and oil from baking sheet with arugula, half of goat cheese, mint, vinegar, and 1 tablespoon oil. Season with salt and pepper. Divide among plates; sprinkle remaining goat cheese over.

* Available at some supermarkets and at specialty foods stores.

** Sometimes labeled Pimentón Picante or Pimentó de La Vera Picante;

available at specialty foods stores and from tienda.com.

I can only spare a minute today, so I’ll stick to the facts:

Fact #1: The only thing better than fried anything else is fried goat cheese.

Fact #2: The only thing better than fried goat cheese is fried goat cheese with caramelized shallots and a drizzle of honey.

Fact #3: Crispy outside, creamy, oozing center

Fact #4: Sweet, savory

Fact #6: Dinner party guests think you are a god(dess)

Goat Cheese Croquettes
Inspired by tapas restaurants in the East Village

1 4 oz log of fresh goat cheese, frozen

1 egg, beaten

1/2 cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)

1 medium shallot, sliced into thin rounds

1/4 cup honey

olive or grapeseed oil

Makes 4

Warm 2 tablespoons of oil over medium heat. Slice the shallot across the equator into thin slices, and separate out each ring. When the oil shimmers, place the shallots in the hot oil and fry until they are brown and slightly burnt, stirring occasionally. Remove from the pan with thongs and allow excess oil to drain off on a paper towel.

Cover the bottom 1/8 inch of a large saute pan with oil and place over medium heat. Remove the goat cheese from the freezer and cut into four equal rounds (each weighing 1 oz). When the oil shimmers, dredge each round of goat cheese in the egg and then in the panko, ensuring that the round is covered on all sides.

Immediately place the rounds into the hot oil and allow them to fry for about 2 minutes, or until you notice the cheese in the middle of the rounds bulging out slightly. Carefully turn the rounds using a pair of thongs or a spatula (or both), do not to splash the hot oil. Allow the rounds to cook for another 2 minutes and then remove from pan. Allow excess oil to drain off on a paper towel.

Drizzle a bit of honey on the bottom of four small plates and top each with shallots and a goat cheese round. Drizzle a bit of additional honey over the top. Serve immediately.

I’ve always been something of a traditionalist when it comes to flavor combinations – peanut butter and jelly, wasabi and soy sauce, bacon and, well, anything… I’m down with the tried and true duos. 

But in the spirit of keeping it fresh, I submit to you, gentle reader, another combination for the ages: goat cheese and caramelized onions. 

Because like other great taste-buddies, these two are different in every way.

But when brought together, they are nothing sort of spectacular. 

Then when you combine them on top of a crispy, chewy Mario Batali crust (which, by the way, has just replaced the January 2009 Gourmet pizza crust recipe as my all-time favorite homemade crust recipe) and allow them to play with some green apple slices and basil for freshness…

…and then drizzle the whole thing with a reduction of balsamic vinegar before popping it onto a hot pizza stone (still on the parchment by the way, so you don’t have to fight with floppy dough and toppings on a 400 degree pizza stone – an amazing technique that I did learn from my now second favorite pizza crust recipe that every other cook has probably have been doing for years – I’m not sure how I missed the memo!)…

The results are just wonderful. The onions bake into the crust and caramelize just a little more, taking on a deeper, more complex flavor. The goat cheese smoothes over them like silk, playing well with the sweet-tart flavor from the apples and balsamic. This was such a pleasure to eat, and I encourage you to do so. You need not cook the onions for the full four hours. As a substitute, caramelize red onions and a little honey for about 30 minutes.

Caramelized Onion and Goat Cheese Pizza
Crust recipe from Mario Batali on food.com

1/4 cup light red or white wine, (Fiano di Avellino is what Batali recommends, I used a Sauvignon Blanc that I happened to have open – anything dry should be fine)

3/4 cup warm water

1 1/2 ounces fresh yeast

1 tablespoon honey

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon plus 1 tablespoon olive oil

3 1/2 cups flour

4 oz fresh goat cheese, crumbled

1 green apple, sliced thin

1 1/2 cup caramelized onions (or 2 large yellow onions, olive oil, honey and salt)

1 cup roughly chopped fresh basil leaves

1/2 cup balsamic vinegar

To make crust:

Place wine, water and yeast in a large bowl and stir until dissolved. Add the honey, salt and 1 tablespoon olive oil and mix well to combine. Add 1 cup of the flour and mix with a wooden spoon until it becomes a loose batter. Add 2 more cups of the flour and stir for 2 to 3 minutes, incorporating as much flour as you can with the wooden spoon.

Bring the dough together by hand and turn out onto a floured board or marble surface. Knead for 6 to 8 minutes, until dough is smooth and firm. Place in a clean, lightly-oiled bowl, using remaining tablespoon of oil and cover with a towel. Let rise in the warmest part of the kitchen for 45 minutes.

To make pizza:

Prepare the balsamic vinegar reduction as the pizza dough is rising. In a small saucepan over low heat, warm vinegar for about 5 minutes. It will begin to simmer and steam. Remove from heat and set aside.

Prepare caramelized onions (unless you have pre-made them) by cooking two chopped onions in a saute pan over low to medium heat in two tablespoons of olive oil. Stir in 2 tablespoons of honey and cook for 20-30 minutes, stirring occasionally until the onions are translucent and turning golden brown.

When the dough has risen, preheat the oven to 400 degrees and place either a pizza stone or an overturned baking sheet in the oven to heat. Lightly flour the dough and stretch it with your fingers over a piece of parchment Until it is at your desired thickness. Allow it to rest for 15 minutes.

Distribute the caramelized onions evenly across the dough, stopping half an inch from the edges. Do the same with the apple slices and then press the onions and apples into the dough slightly. Crumble the goat cheese over the top and sprinkle the basil. Drizzle the reduction of balsamic vinegar over the top.

Slide the pizza on the parchment onto the pizza stone or baking sheet. Bake for 15 minutes or until the crust is beginning to turn golden brown. Allow the pizza to rest for five minutes before serving.

I think that friends who have been reading my blog are beginning to grow concerned about my health. After all, it would appear from my latest posts that I have been living on a steady diet of butter, sugars, eggs, vanilla, and chocolate. Never fear, I cook far more than I post and I’ve been spreading warm, buttery love to the thighs of friends, relatives, and colleagues near and far. In the midst of this flurry of holiday baking, my meals have primarily consisted of healthy, simple meals with seasonal flavors. This salad is a delightful example of this kind of weeknight eating, featuring sweet-tart dried cherries, two kinds of apples, musky toasted walnuts, roasted fennel, and a sweet vinaigrette, all wrapped in the loving arms of warm goat cheese.

Step 1: Slice one bulb of fennel into 1/4 inch slices. Coat them with olive oil and season with sea salt and fresh ground pepper and roast in the oven at 350 degrees for 20 minutes. Be sure to stir from time to time to ensure that the pieces are cooking evenly. Add a little water to the bottom of the pan if the fennel is drying out.

Step 2: Make the vinaigrette. Combine 1/4 cup balsalmic vinegar, 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 tablespoon honey, 1 tablespoon dried basil in a small bowl. Whisk together until the honey is dissolved. Add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

Step 3: When the fennel has about 7 minutes to go in the oven, place a small pan with 1/3 cup walnuts spread evenly over the surface. Begin the process of preparing your lettuce. Be sure to wash and dry thoroughly, and set aside.

Step 4: When the fennel has about 4 minutes left, place a small dish of goat cheese in the oven to warm.

Step 5: Core and chop apples into thin half circles.

Step 6: Remove everything from the oven, and prepare to assemble the salad.

Step 7: Place lettuces, fennel, walnuts, cherries, and apple slices in a large bowl. Use a whisk to stir up the dressing and drizzle it down the sides of the bowl, not directly on top of its contents. Scoop the dressing off the bottom of the bowl with your fingers, folding it over the salad, mixing the contents in the process.

Step 8: Plate the salad, ensuring that each of the ingredients are evenly distributed. Top each salad with a disk of warm goat cheese. Serve immediately.

Warm Goat Cheese Salad with Roasted Fennel

Salad:

1 lb. Mixed baby greens

1 Gala apple

1 Granny Smith apple

6oz fresh goat cheese

1 large fennel bulb

1/3 cup walnuts

1/2 cup dried cherries

Olive oil

Sea salt and fresh ground pepper

Dressing:

1/4 cup balsalmic vinegar

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon honey

1 tablespoon dried basil

Sea salt and fresh ground pepper

This recipe involves fresh pasta. To learn how to make fresh pasta at home, see my post on making fresh pasta at home.

Ravioli is on my top ten list of comfort foods and goat cheese is high on my superlative list of ingredients. I love how it instantly add richness and divine flavor to, well, anything that mingles with it. Recently I had purchased very disappointing goat cheese ravioli from Russo’s, our neighborhood cheese and pastisseria (so sad because Russo’s handmade buffalo mozzarella is out of this world), and I was craving the goat cheese ravioli of my dreams: creamy, melty, and delightful. This one totally delivered (do not be deceived by the underwhelming picture above – my camera skills are sadly lacking).

I poured over by cookbooks for inspiration prior to making this dish. The filling on which I decided is based on a pasta dish in Mario Batali’s The Babbo Cookbook. I was running out of time and didn’t plan ahead for the right ingredients, so I made my pasta in a different way that Mario prescribes, so that is where the similarities end. The filling contains sage, rosemary, Italian parsley, fresh goat cheese, parmigiano reggiano cheese, salt, fresh ground pepper, and nutmeg (which really adds a nice touch).

Mix the filling ingredients together and put the the fridge to chill for at least half an hour. It will help the mixture solidify when you are working with the pasta.

Speaking of pasta – remember the fresh pasta lesson? Well that is where we pick up the story. Once your filling is chilled and your dough is rolled out, trim the edges of those long pieces with a pasta cutter so everything is straight and even.

Spoon a heaping tablespoon of the filling onto the pasta, leaving an 1 1/2 inches on all sides (except the ends – leave about 3/4 inch on the ends). 

Use the pasta cutter to cut each piece evenly down the middle.

And now we have come to the panic point – the part where one asks oneself “how the heck are these ever going to stay together when BOILED?” The answer is something we all learned in elementary school art class. Remember making pinch pots? Where you’d roll out a coil of clay and then score and slurry each layer as you stacked them in order to hold them together in the kiln? Well, this isn’t much different, except sometimes you don’t even need to score (make little, shallow cuts in areas where you want to fuse the pasta together) depending on your pasta. I didn’t have to this time, but I did “slurry” (i.e. take a little bowl of water and apply water with my fingers to the areas that I was going to stick together. Just go along the edges. It will re-activate the glutens and help the pasta stick together. Panic was unnecessary! Every single one held – a better track record than some fancy frozen pastas I’ve bought at boutique stores.

Now fold the whole thing directly in half, and seal the edges. And do it for every one. And then let them sit for ten minutes, while you get about 4 quarts of water boiling in a large pot. Also, start a large saute pan on medium heat and fill it with the following: three or four chopped cloves of garlic, a glug of olive oil, a tablespoon of butter and salt and black pepper to taste. (obviously, I neglected to photograph this step – forgive me gentle readers!) Once all that is bubbling (without burning – turn it down if it is!) and the pasta has cooked in boiling water for 3-4 minutes, drain the pasta and then add it to the saute pan.

Once the pasta is coated with the sauce in the pan, add 1/2 cup dry white wine and simmer for a couple more minutes, stirring occationally. Chop some Italian parsley for garnish, remove the pasta from the heat and plate, garnish and serve immediately.

Here’s another sub-par picture that doesn’t do the ravioli justice. Maybe I should take a photography class? Trust me – make this dish!

Fresh Goat Cheese Ravioli
Inspired by Mario Batali’s recipe: Goat Cheese Tortelloni with Dried Orange and Fennel Pollen in The Babbo Cookbook

6 oz. fresh goat cheese (I recommend Coach Farm, if you have the means)

1/2 cup whole milk

1 tablespoon Italian parsley, chopped (plus more for garnish)

5 sage leaves, chopped

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped

1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg

1/4 cup parmigiano reggiano

salt and fresh ground black pepper

Pasta dough, rolled into sheets (see Fresh Pasta post on this blog)

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon butter

1/4 cup dry white wine

3-4 cloves of garlic, chopped finely

The omlette used to be my nemesis in the kitchen. I’d get all my ingredients prepped and have them in little bowls, ready for the moment that I could add them to my perfectly cooked egg canvas…but alas… I’d ruin the integrity of the egg by ripping it, and end up with fancy-pants scrambled eggs. It takes some practice, but if I can do it it is proof that anyone can.

As omlette fillings go, there are few that top mushrooms.

These are cooked in a little olive oil and balsamic vinegar.  Sautee over low heat until the liquid starts coming out and they become flexible, then set aside.

Whisk some eggs (two per serving) in a bowl with a little milk and a pinch of salt (for every two eggs, use 1/8 cup of milk).

Heat a non-stick pan with a tablespoon of olive oil on low heat. Slowly pour the egg mixture into the pan, stopping before the egg spreads to the sides (it will do this on its own).

Wait for the egg to cook most of the way through, with just a little bit of liquid egg left on the surface. Use a silicone spatula to carefully nudge the edges of the egg, to make sure that it is not stuck to the pan on any side.

Once you are sure it is loose, work the spatula under the egg and flip in one quick, clean motion. Once it is flipped, use the spatula to smooth out the egg.

Arrange the goat cheese and mushrooms on top of the egg. You can either cover half of the circle and fold the other half over, or you can choose to fold both edges over the center, like a crepe, as shown above. If you are into truffle oil, you may want to add a few drops here as well.

Portabello Mushroom and Goat Cheese Omlette

2 eggs (per serving) preferably from the greenmarket or free-range

Portabello mushroom caps (1 per serving)

Whole milk (1/8 cup per serving)

Fresh goat cheese

olive oil

salt and fresh ground black pepper

Truffle oil (optional)